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Cat5e vs Cat6 vs Cat6a vs Cat8 Ethernet Cables

The cable aisle is full of big numbers. Here's what each category really does, which one your home needs, and why a pricier 'Cat8' patch cable is usually pointless.

Updated September 22, 20265 min readBy the CompareInternet team

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Ethernet cables are rated in categories, "Cat" for short, that describe how much data they're certified to carry, and how far. The higher the number, the higher the rated speed. But for a home network, the right cable depends on your equipment and distances, not on buying the biggest number on the shelf.

This guide explains each category in plain terms, tells you which to buy for patch cables and in-wall runs, and flags the quality traps that matter far more than the category printed on the jacket.

The categories at a glance

CategoryRated forHome reality
Cat5e1 Gbps up to 100 m. The NBASE-T standard also supports 2.5 Gbps over Cat5eFine for gigabit and usually 2.5G. Plenty of existing wiring is Cat5e
Cat61 Gbps up to 100 m; 10 Gbps over shorter runs (up to about 55 m)The sensible default for new patch cables and most in-wall runs
Cat6a10 Gbps up to 100 mBest for new in-wall runs you want to future-proof for 10G
Cat7 / Cat7aUses non-standard connectors in its formal spec; not a TIA standardMostly a marketing label on consumer cables. Skip it
Cat825/40 Gbps over short runs (up to about 30 m), designed for data centersNo home benefit. Thick, stiff and often of dubious authenticity

The 100-meter figure (about 328 feet) is the standard channel length. Almost no home run comes close.

Which cable should you buy?

Quality traps that matter more than the category

Copper-clad aluminum (CCA)

Cheap bulk cable is sometimes copper-clad aluminum instead of solid copper. CCA doesn't meet the Ethernet cable standards, is more fragile, has higher resistance and can cause problems with PoE. Always buy 100% bare copper cable.

Fake "Cat7" and "Cat8"

Many cheap cables labeled Cat7 or Cat8 don't meet any real spec. A well-made Cat6 cable from a reputable brand is a better buy than a mystery Cat8.

Solid vs stranded

Solid-conductor cable is for in-wall runs terminated into jacks and patch panels. Stranded cable is flexible and meant for patch cables. Using stranded cable for long in-wall runs, or punching solid cable into plugs that move a lot, causes problems.

Fire ratings

Cable inside walls may need a specific fire rating under local code, such as CMR (riser) or CMP (plenum) for air-handling spaces. Check what applies where you live.

Shielded or unshielded?

For almost every home, unshielded (UTP) cable is the right choice. Shielded cable (STP/FTP) helps in electrically noisy environments, but only when the whole system, including jacks, patch panels and grounding, is shielded and properly grounded. Mixing shielded cable with unshielded jacks gains nothing. Use shielded cable only if you have a specific interference problem, like a run alongside heavy electrical equipment.

Your equipment sets the real speed

A network runs at the speed of its slowest link. A Cat6a cable between two gigabit ports still gives you gigabit. To use 2.5GbE or 10GbE, your router, switch and computer's network port all need to support it. See best home network switches for multi-gig options, and check your PC's port or add a 2.5G adapter.

If a device shows only a 100 Mbps connection on a gigabit port, the cable is often damaged or badly terminated. Only two of the four pairs are working. Swap the cable before blaming anything else.

Testing a cable

An inexpensive cable tester checks that all eight wires are connected in the right order. It's essential if you terminate your own cables. For performance, check the link speed your device reports (in Windows, under network adapter status) and run a local file transfer or iperf test between two computers. Our home Ethernet wiring guide covers the full wiring process.

How long can an Ethernet cable be?

The standard channel length is 100 meters (about 328 feet), including patch cables at each end. Almost every home run is far shorter. For runs longer than 100 meters, such as to a detached garage or barn, use a switch partway along, fiber, or a point-to-point wireless bridge. For outdoor and underground runs, choose cable rated for the environment. See fiber patch cables and tools for long-distance options.

Cables and tools we recommend

Best patch cables

1. Monoprice Cat6 patch cables

$

Best for: Everyday router, switch and PC connections

Pure-copper Cat6 patch cables from a long-trusted brand, available in many lengths and colors, and inexpensive enough to buy in packs.

What we like

  • Pure copper, well made
  • Cheap and many lengths

Watch out for

  • Standard round cable is bulkier than slim options
Best for in-wall runs

2. Cable Matters Cat6a bulk cable (solid copper)

$$

Best for: Future-proofing new wiring for 10G

Solid-copper Cat6a bulk cable for in-wall runs. Check the fire rating (CMR/CMP) your local code requires before buying.

What we like

  • 10G-ready over long runs
  • Solid copper conductors

Watch out for

  • Thicker and harder to terminate
Best tester

3. Klein Tools VDV cable tester

$$

Best for: Checking runs and self-made cables

A reliable tester that checks continuity and wiring order, which is essential when you terminate your own cables or troubleshoot a flaky run.

What we like

  • Quickly finds miswires and breaks
  • Trusted tool brand

Watch out for

  • Doesn't certify speed; tests wiring only

Frequently asked questions

Is Cat6 worth it over Cat5e?

For new cables, yes. The cost is similar. Don't rip out working Cat5e wiring, though, since it handles gigabit and usually 2.5G.

Do I need Cat8 for gaming?

No. Cat8 is designed for data centers and adds nothing at home. A good Cat6 cable is ideal.

Can Cat5e do 2.5 gigabit?

Yes, in most homes. The 2.5GBASE-T standard was designed to run over Cat5e.

What is CCA cable?

Copper-clad aluminum: cheaper cable that doesn't meet Ethernet standards and can cause problems. Buy pure copper.

Why does my device only connect at 100 Mbps?

Usually a damaged or badly terminated cable with a broken pair. Try another cable first.

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